Table of Contents:
Click on the subject to jump directly there.

Pool Light
Pumps
General Filter Questions
DE Filters
Sand Filters
Cartridge Filters
Pool Cleaners
Water Leveler
Heater
Draining the Pool
Decking
Pool Chemistry

Need more info?

POOL LIGHT:

My pool light won't turn on:

• Check the GFI on the plug outlet at the pool equipment. Push in the reset button. Nearby lighting or static charges can trip this button. There is a plastic piece under the button called a slide bar. Make sure it is all the way over to the right.
• Make sure the batteries in your remote control are installed correctly and charged
• Turn the light on at the manual switch at the equipment. This switch has a square push button.
• Check the breaker in the electric panel.

My pool light turns itself on and/or off by itself:

Your remote control is subject to interference from a variety of sources. Garage door openers, household appliances, house intercoms, phone company microwaves and neighbors with their own remotes can interfere with your remote. Usually, changing the frequency of your remote will correct this interference.

Turn the dial on the face of your hand remote to another letter. Make sure the dial on your plug in remote (if you have one) matches the same setting. Also, change the dial on the light module at the pool equipment location to match the settings on your remotes. To locate the module, look for the electrical device that has the square button that manually turns the light off and on. If you cannot see the red dial (matching the one on your remote) on the face of the module you will have to remove the cover plate that is concealing it. Change the dial so the letter matches the one you selected on your remote. You may have to try a number of different settings if your first attempt isn't successful. Example: if you set the dial on your remote to point to the letter "C", then the dial on the module also must point to "C".

Back to Top

POOL EQUIPMENT:

PUMP:

How do I clean the basket inside my pump?

Turn your equipment off. Unscrew the clear plastic lid on top of the pump, you will hear the water draining out of the system when you do this. Lift the plastic basket out of the pump and empty it. You may tap it gently against a pipe to dislodge debris or use a hose to spray it out. Make sure it is put back into the pump the same way you took it out. You must now re-prime the pump. See the next paragraph on re-priming the pump.

How do I prime my pump?

Make sure the rubber "O" ring that fits on the pump lid, and the lid itself, are clean of dirt and debris. Use dish detergent to clean them if necessary. Also clean out the groove on top of the pump where the "O" ring will fit. Use a little "Aqua-lube" or, if you don't have that, salad oil to wet the "O" ring before you slip it back on the lid (do not use Vaseline or other petroleum product). Have about 2 gallons of water in a pail, or your hose, ready and fill the pump with water before you put the lid on. Don't be shy here, dump it in as fast as you can. The water will drain out about as fast as you pour it in. Quickly screw the lid back on the pump and turn the pump on right away. All of the water will disappear from inside the pump but it will gradually fill up again. After you turn the pump back on, make sure the lid is firmly screwed down (it is not necessary to make it as tight as possible), and open the air relief valve on top of your filter. Air will gradually begin to squirt out. Wait until water starts squirting out, more or less in a steady stream, and close the air valve. Check your filter gauge to make sure it is showing pressure.

My pump won't prime:

• Check that the pool is full enough, 1/2 way up the skimmer opening to the pool (mid way up tile).
• Check that the skimmer flap between the pool and skimmer easily swings down and up.
• Check that the skimmer basket is clean and sits down inside the skimmer.
• Check that the pool cleaner valve is not set to 100% pool cleaner. Put it to 100% pool until the pump primes and then reset the valve to it's correct position.
• Check the pump lid to insure it is screwed on firmly.
• Open the air valve on top of the filter. If air is squirting out, the pump is working, it's just taking time to get all of the air out of the system.
• After you have done all of the above, turn the pump off. Check to insure there is no dirt or debris in the "O" ring groove and that the "O" ring is clean and lubed. Re-prime the pump with water, screw the lid on and turn the pump back on.

Back to Top

FILTERS:

General:

What pressure should my filter pressure gauge read?

There is no single pressure for every pool. Pressures on clean filters should run between 10psi and 20psi. The length of your plumbing, type of pool cleaner and number of valves will determine your clean filter pressure. Turn the pool cleaner off and turn the pump on. Bleed the air out of the filter with the air bleed on top of the filter (when water squirts out in a steady stream the air is out), close the air valve and read the pressure. This is your clean filter pressure. Turn your pool cleaner on. Depending on the type of pool cleaner you have, your pressure will either go up or down. This is your clean filter pressure with your pool cleaner operating.

When should I backwash or clean my filter?

Backwash your filter (cartridge filters - remove and clean the cartridge) when the pressure is 10psi higher than your "clean filter/clean filter with pool cleaner on" pressure (see "What pressure should my filter pressure gauge read") or every 90 days, whichever is first.

Back to Top

DE Filters:
Note: You should take your DE filter apart, remove the grids and clean out the caked-on DE once a year. A high pressure hose will usually do the job. To avoid injury, always turn pump off and open the air valve before disassembly of a filter.

How do I back wash my DE filter?

Do in the following order:

1. Turn the pump off.
2. Stretch the backwash hose out to where you want to discharge the water.
3. Rotate the handle on the front of the filter to the open position and pull it down until it stops.
4. Turn the pump on and run until the water coming out of the hose turns clear (approx. 2-3 minutes).
5. Turn the pump off, wait 60 seconds and turn the pump back on for another 10 to 15 seconds.
6. Turn the pump off.
7. Return the valve on front of the filter to the up and locked position.
8. Turn the pump back on.
9. Recharge the filter with DE (see below).

How much DE should I put in my DE filter and how do I add it?

36DE = 4.5 lbs., 48DE = 6 lbs. and 60DE = 7.5 lbs. Fill a small bucket about 3/4 full of DE (or less if that's too much DE for your filter). Add water until it is a thick slurry. Turn the pool pump on and the pool cleaner off. Remove the basket from the skimmer and slowly pour the DE slurry into the skimmer. If you need to add more DE, repeat this process until you have added the correct amount. Replace the skimmer basket and turn your pool cleaner back on. Note: Pouring the DE directly into the skimmer without mixing it with water first can cause excessive caking of DE on the grids.

Back to Top

Sand Filters:
Note: The sand in your filter should last at least 7 years. If the pressure stays high after proper backwashing, the sand could be clogged with suntan oil or other like substances. Servicing or changing the sand should be done by a professional.

How do I backwash my sand filter?

Do in the following order:

1. Turn the pump off.
2. Turn the pool cleaner valve to the off position.
3. Stretch the backwash hose out to where you want to discharge the water.
4. Rotate the handle on the front of the filter to the open position and pull it up until it stops.
5. Turn the pump on and run until the water coming out of the hose turns clear (approx. 30-60 seconds).
6. Turn the pump off.
7. Return the valve on front of the filter to the down and locked position.
8. Turn the pump back on and reset your pool cleaner valve to it's operating position.
9. Observe the filter pressure. If it is higher than it should be, repeat the backwash procedure.

Back to Top

Cartridge Filters:

How do I clean my cartridge filter?

First turn your pump off and open the air valve! Failure to turn the pump off and open the air valve before unscrewing the lid could result in serious injury. After you have turned the pump off and opened the air valve to relieve pressure, unscrew the hand nut on top of the filter. Lift the filter cover off and lift the cartridge filter out off the filter housing. Be careful, the filter can be heavy. Use correct lifting techniques to avoid injury. Use a pressure nozzle on your water hose (or take the filter to a quarter car wash) to clean the filter inside and out. If you use suntan oil, we recommend using a mild dish detergent to break up the oil (car wash detergent will work also). Return the cartridge to the filter housing, clean the lid, "O" ring and filter housing of debris and put some "Aqualube" or equivalent on the "O" ring. Place the lid on the filter housing, screw the hand nut down firmly, open the air valve, prime your pump (see "How do I prime my pump?") and turn it on. When water squirts out in a steady stream from the air valve, close the valve.

Back to Top

POOL CLEANERS

Hayward Pool Vac:

How do I set the valve for my Hayward pool cleaner?

While the pump is operating , turn the pool cleaner valve until the pool cleaner stops moving. If the cleaner moves faster and the pump starts making more noise, you are turning the valve the wrong way. After the pool cleaner has stopped, watch inside the clear plastic lid of your pump and start slowly turning the valve back. When you see bubbles start to form inside the pump and the sound of the pump starts to raise in pitch, stop turning the valve. Back the valve up just a little until the bubbles are at the point that they are just starting to form. This is the optimal setting for your pool cleaner at that moment. There is no single perfect valve setting. As your filter gets more dirty, water flow is decreased and you may have to readjust pool cleaner valve to compensate.

My Hayward pool cleaner just sits in one spot and doesn't move:

First check the valve setting as described above. If that doesn't work, turn the valve to "pool cleaner off", turn the pump off and remove the Hayward from the pool. Usually there is a rock or other debris too big for the Hayward to "eat" or stuck inside. Remove the hose and check inside the top. There is a small paddle like wheel inside the top just out of reach of your finger. Try using a pencil or screwdriver and gently prod it to see if it will turn. Often, turning it will fix the problem. Either try the cleaner out now or try the next step. Look inside the hole in the bottom of the cleaner to see if you can see blockage. If not, unscrew and remove the bottom plate and clean out the debris that are clogging the inside. Put the hose back on the Hayward. Put the cleaner back into the pool until it sinks and slowly push all of the hose (starting with the hose closest to the cleaner and working your way to the open end) down under water so it fills before hooking it back into the wall. Turn on your pump and reset the valve. Note: When returning the Hayward pool cleaner to the pool, insure the hose is completely full of water or you will lose prime on your pump (see - "How do I prime my pump?").

Back to Top

WATER LEVELER

My pool either over fills or under fills:

The water leveler is in your deck, in a cement crock under a lid that looks like your skimmer lid. It operates in the same way as the standard toilet float. The float is "rough set" by your startup person but usually will require fine tuning by you. Place your thumb on top of the bar (to raise the water) or your finger on the bottom of the bar (to lower the water). With your other hand, gently grasp the float and bend the bar up (to raise the water) or down (to lower the water). You shouldn't need to bend it much. Bend just a little and give your pool 24 hours to reach it's new water level. If needed, do another minor adjustment.

My water leveler won't shut off:

Many areas have high water pressure that can force the water leveler open when it tries to close. Attached to a faucet (usually at the back or side of the house) there is a valve shaped like a flat bar. When the bar is parallel to the pipe it is all the way open, when 90 degrees (like a "T") it is closed. Close the valve completely and then barely open it until you can just hear the water flowing. This is usually enough to maintain proper water level in the pool and reduces the water pressure so the water leveler can close.

Back to Top

HEATING

My propane heater won't light:

Your pump must be running and water circulating through the heater before it will light. The electric breaker that controls the heater must be on. The on/off switch on the heater must be in the on position. If you listen carefully, you may be able to hear the ticking of the electronic ignition trying to light. Make sure the temperature dial on the heater is turned up. Check the valve at the tanks and make sure your heater is using a tank that has gas in it. If you just had your tanks changed, the gas line may have air in it and it will take about 10 to 15 attempts by the heater to light before the air is purged out of the line. A heater will typically try to light 3 times automatically. If it is unsuccessful in those 3 attempts, it will shut off and stop trying. If that happens, turn the switch off and back on to reset it so it will try again. You can manually purge the gas line by undoing the pipe union at the heater but we don't recommend you do that unless you are familiar with gas systems and plumbing. You can also call the gas company that delivered your gas and ask them to come back and purge the lines.

My natural gas heater won't light:

Your pump must be running and water circulating through the heater before it will light. The electric breaker that controls the heater must be on. The on/off switch on the heater must be in the on position. If you listen carefully, you may be able to hear the ticking of the electronic ignition trying to light. Make sure the temperature dial on the heater is turned up.

Back to Top

DRAINING

How do I drain my pool?

Note: If your pool is a plaster pool, do not drain it in the summer months. The average temperature must be below 80 degrees F. to drain a plaster pool. It's best to let a professional drain a plaster pool.

In order to drain your pool you will need to use a special pump. A submersible pump or sump pump can be rented at most equipment rental stores. Be sure to check with your city to see if you may drain the pool into the street. Some cities do not allow draining the pool into the street, others require a permit before you do so. Cities can and do fine homeowners for violation of their pool draining rules. Another option, the one most frequently used, is to drain your pool into one of your sewer clean-outs. Your sewer clean-out is usually a black pipe sticking up from the ground at or near the base of the house in the front and/or back yard. It usually has a screw cap that can be removed to gain access. A permit is not required to drain the pool into the sewer clean-out in most cities.

Back to Top

DECKING

My deck has chips in it:

Small imperfections, landscapers, weed eaters, chairs, the occasional dropped hard object, etc. can all cause chips in your decking. We recommend you wait until all landscaping and other construction is completed before you call us for a chip repair. We will schedule a one-time chip repair at no charge to you.

My deck has cracks in it:

All concrete will crack. Concrete is a rigid structure that has to expand and contract with the extreme temperature ranges in Arizona. However, there is a legal limit to how much concrete is allowed to crack. Code states that hairline cracks are normal and expected but a crack cannot exceed the width of a dime. Cracks narrower than a dime cannot be repaired, they are too thin to fit a repair material in. If you can fit a dime in a crack it needs to be repaired. This "dime" rule doesn't apply to the expansion joints. They are designed to crack and the cracks in them are allowed to be bigger. The joints are intended to control the cracking of the deck and that is usually where the cracks occur. However, sometimes the deck decides on its own to crack where it wants to. There is no way to predict with 100% accuracy where a deck will crack.

My kooldeck has different shades of color:

Kooldeck starts as a semi-liquid mud that turns hard. Then it finishes drying at the speed of a rock, i.e. slowly. Additionally, a portion of the deck getting shade will dry slower than the part of the deck that gets no shade. Moisture under the deck will cause that part of the deck to be darker. If a part of the deck is constantly wet, it will always be darker than decking that hardly ever gets wet. Sunlight will bleach the deck as well. It generally takes about 12 months for a deck to reach its final color.

Back to Top

POOL CHEMISTRY

"Preventive Maintenance," is testing the pool water daily and brushing the pool walls and floor at least three times a day for the first ten days. Thereafter, brush at least three times a week and after each dust storm. Pool water maintenance can be easy once you have learned and established a program for routinely caring for your pool.

Proper testing and care insure years of pool pleasure, although neglect can cause serious problems and needless expense. Algae, stains, and scaling can be prevented. The constant control of chlorine, pH, alkalinity, and hardness are essential to the prevention of bacteria, scale, and corrosion.

Your pool will differ from your neighbors. Difference in size, water temperature, and usage make each pool unique. Do not compare your pool to your neighbors.

CHLORINE

Chlorine control is necessary for the control of bacteria and algae. Chlorine is measured on a scale .6 to 3.0. To prevent the growth of algae and bacteria, your pool water should be maintained with a reading of 1.0 in cooler months and a 1.5 reading for the hottest time of the year. The most commonly used chlorine compound is Tri-chlor jumbo tabs. Chlorine should always be added in the evening as it then has all night to kill the bacteria and algae. The daylight hours drain the pool of chlorine rapidly, not allowing it to be as effective in battling bacteria and algae. California Pools recommends shocking pool water twice monthly to maintain a minimum of 1.5 free chlorine. Unless you have a very high hardness content (over 400 PPM) we recommend shocking with liquid chlorine. Avoid using corrosive shock treatments or algaecides.

STABILIZER

The purpose of cyanuric acid is to reduce the loss of chlorine through evaporation and sunlight. The most commonly used terms for cyanuric acid are stabilizer or conditioner. Chlorine combined with cyanuric acid is referred to as stabilizer chlorine. We recommend a 25 to 40 PPM cyanuric acid reading in your pool water. The addition of cyanuric acid will cause the pH to drop. Do not confuse this with muratic or sulfuric acid which is used for controlling the pH.

ACID

"pH" control is an absolute necessity. The pool's pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with the neutral point at 7. Pool water is best when maintained in a slightly base condition to prevent staining and so as not to cause excessive corrosion to the plaster surface or metal parts in the pool. A proper pH reading should be between 7.4 and 7.6. If pH adjustment is required, muratic acid can be used to lower the pH. To raise the pH you may add soda ash, do so directly to the pool water in the deepest part of the pool. Do this away from return outlets, pool light, and skimmer. Caution: Handle all acids with the greatest care. Always add acid in the morning and never at the same time you add chlorine.

POOL ALKALINITY

Your pool water may be too high or too low in alkalinity. A low alkalinity reading can result in a build up on the plaster called "scale." Scale is seen as a hard, white formation on the plaster and at the water line on the tile. The idea alkalinity range is 90 to 120 parts per million (PPM). Alkalinity can be raised 10 PPM by adding 3# of baking soda to every 20,000 gallons of pool water. When your swimming pool is completed, our start up person will adjust the alkalinity the first time at no charge. Arizona water will change in alkalinity throughout the year. It must be adjusted after filling or even the addition of water to keep the pool at the proper level.

HARDNESS

As water evaporates and tap water is added, calcium remains and builds. The tendency of pool water is to increase in hardness (calcium and magnesium in suspension) caused by the constant evaporation of pool water. Do not attempt to lower calcium hardness without strict supervision. Acceptable readings for hardness are between 200 and 300 PPM. Hardness can be raised quickly by adding calcium directly to the pool water. Once the hardness reaches 600 PPM, however, the pool water should be drained completely and refilled. California Pools will raise the hardness at start up if lower than 200 PPM.

The two most important factors in maintaining water balance are Total Alkalinity and pH.

TOTAL ALKALINITY is the key to water balance. When the alkalinity level is low, corrosion of equipment and interior surfaces such as plaster and tile grout may occur, resulting in spot etching, roughness and streaks. It is recommended that you adjust alkalinity before adjusting the pH level of the pool. The ideal total alkalinity level of the pool is based on the type of chlorination used:

1.) Acidic -Trichlor: chlorine gas, bromine, tabs or sticks (100-120 PPM ideal)

2.) Neutral- Sodium Di-Chlor: 2 part bromine base, liquid chlorine, calcium hypochlorite, lithium hypochlorite (100 120 PPM ideal)

Ph is a value expressing the relative acidity or alkalinity of pool water. It is expressed as a number ranging from 0 to 14, with 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. When the pH values are low or acidic, corrosion of equipment and interior surfaces such as plaster and tile grout may occur, resulting in spot etching, roughness. High pH levels will result in the plaster absorbing whatever is present in the pool such as dust or calcium, leaving tan or brown stain on the plaster or pebble surface.

The ideal pH level is between 7.4 - 7.6 PPM.

Calcium Hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium in the water, with recommended levels ranging between 200 - 400 PPM. As pool water evaporates the calcium and other minerals in the water remain. It is not uncommon for the calcium hardness in the water to double every year due to evaporation, calcium contained in many pool chemicals, and the sometimes high calcium level contained in tap water. Frequent backwashing or partially draining and refilling the pool may possibly be required to effectively manage the calcium level. Above 600PPM is considered unmanageable possibly requiring corrective measures.

When necessary to partially drain and refill the pool due to excessive calcium: do not expose the interior finish in direct sunlight with air temperatures over 90 degrees. Exposing a white plaster pool to direct sunlight with temperatures over 90 degrees can result in cracking and popping. Temperatures under 90 degrees should be safe enough to completely drain the pool unless the existing plaster surface has experienced excessive degradation and wear. Pebble Tec pools can be drained at any time of the year.

PH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, dissolved soils and temperature are the key factors that determine water balance. Water that is neither corrosive nor scaling but is in a state of "equilibrium", maintaining specific levels of minerals constituents is considered balanced.

When pool water is deficient in its mineral levels, it will corrode, etch of dissolve any metals, plaster or grout it contacts in an effort to balance itself. Excessive levels of minerals are relieved by releasing particles either as scale, residues, or cloudiness also in an effort to balance itself.

Back to Top

Need more info?